May 4, 2023. Sitka, Alaska

Westerdam was docked by 7 a.m. by the Sitka Sound Cruise Terminal which is six miles from the centre of town. Today the Discovery Princess, with a capacity of 4,402 passengers, is also in port sharing the port buses that shuttle passengers into town in less than 15 minutes. The temperature was 3° C, mainly sunny and a gentle breeze at east 7 km per hour this morning, but it had warmed to 5° C by 8:30 a.m. when we were boarding the bus into Sitka.

Sitka is situated on the central west coast of Baranof Island in Alaska’s Alexander Archipelago. Sitka is known for its beautiful scenery, where visitors can enjoy fishing, hiking and wildlife viewing. Before the Russian fur traders arrived, the area was the traditional home of the Tlingit people for more than 10,000 years. Mount Edgecumbe, a dormant volcano, is visible from Sitka on clear days.

The Russian American Company controlled Alaska, with the blessing of the Russian Czar, from the mid-1700s until the United States purchased it in 1867 and had the official ceremony atop Baranof Castle Hill on October 18, 1867. The Russians had named the area Novoarkhangel’sk. Later calling the town, the official capital of Russian America, New Archangel. A fort was built in 1799.

At Sitka’s east side is part of the Tongass National Rain Forest, this section designated as Sitka National Historic Park. In 1802 Tlingit Kiks.ádi warriors successfully attacked and burned the Russian fort. However, in 1804 the Russians returned and banished the Tlingit who suffered more losses than the Russians, The Tlingit abandoned the area for 20 years before returning.

After a quick breakfast in the dining room, we were on the bus into Sitka by 8:30 a.m. for the 12 minute six mile ride. By 9 a.m. we had wandered from the shuttle drop-off at Harrington Centennial Hall to the library next door for a quick check to see if their wi-fi was fast enough for photo downloading in a reasonable time. It was not, so the decision not to bring the laptop was justified. In the hall parking lot was the 15 seat “Party Bike” that we would be using in a couple of hours. Near the library were several small cherry trees coming into bloom.

At the back of the hall were marvellous views of Sitka Sound and the surrounding white capped mountains and the fishing fleet. We followed the waterfront Harbor Drive along Crescent Harbor to the winding path that leads up the 77 meter high Baranof Castle Hill. On the flat plateau at the top is a viewpoint scattered with signs explaining its history. Its original Tlingit name is Knoo-tlian. The hill’s current name comes from Baranof Castle that was built on top of the hill in 1837, but was lost to fire in 1898. Castle Hill was the site in the fall of 1867, where the official ceremony for the sale of Alaska from Russia to the United States took place. Signs explained that Alaska was placed under the offices of the military for 20 years before given civilian government. In the Organic Act of 1884 a governor and civil government were authorized. This is known as Noow Tlein in Tlingit. In 1956 Castle Hill was official turned over to the territory of Alaska. Castle Hill was the site of the first raising of the 49^th star American flag on July 4, 1959 by a colour guard from the First Battle Group 9^th (Manchu) Infantry to signify the statehood of Alaska. Improvements were made to the site in 1966 and 1967 is preparation for the Alaska Centennial.

Next we came down from the hill using some stone stairs that brought us to Totem Square, which we later viewed from the Party Bike. Across the street from it was the Alaska Pioneer Home, a retirement home for eligible Alaskans over 65 years of age. It was built in 1934. On the front lawn was a prospector statue erected in 1949. Then we spotted Sheet’ka Kwaán Naa Kahidi Tribal Community House which is the home of the Naa Kahidi Native Dancers. It is built in the style of a traditional Tlingit clan house. It is located on the former site of the Indian Governmental School. One of the ship’s tours is scheduled to see the dancers.

Next we found St. Michael’s Cathedral ,with its onion dome, tower, bells, historic icons and golden Orthodox crosses, a National Historic Landmark. The original St. Michael’s Cathedral was built is 1844-48, but burned in 1898 but and then restored in 1956. Again it was destroyed by fire in 1966. Fortunately, in 1961, the Historic American Building Survey had made architectural drawings which were used to construct the new building to look like the old one.

It was time to meet the group for the “Sitka Pedal & Pub Crawl” back in the parking lot of Harrington Centennial Hall. Bethany, a native resident of Sitka, was the driver and there were 13 of us Westerdam peddlers. Most peddlers were over 55, except two thirty-something men from Albuquerque, New Mexico. We glided on to the main street, Lincoln Street, going to go to Ernie’s Saloon. The manager, Pete, supplied us with Duck Fart shooters. You have not been properly welcomed to Alaska if you have not poured one down your throat in one shot. In the shot glass, contained in layers, was half an ounce each of Kahlua, Bailey’s Irish Cream and Crown Royal whiskey. There was an option to stir the concoction and sip it, but it was more fun to down it at once. You could order more, but had to pay for anything extra. We learned about its history. Founded by Ernie in 1939 when the building had been built on posts over the water. When the bridge was built in the 1960s lots of mud and rock were added to its approach on the downtown side adding another 200 meters to the waterfront. Ernie’s was no longer over the water. He took the opportunity to expand and build a foundation. The new and old parts are easy to see. Next we were back on the bike and headed to Totem Square and Pioneer Bar, locally known as Pee’s bar. It is near the fishermen’s pier about a 400 meter pedal. Being just before noon there were only half a dozen locals imbibing. There are hundreds of photos of fishing boats, some in distress and others just wrecks, but plenty floating and fishermen showing off large fish. There is a large bell, that if rung signifies that the person who rang the bell will buy a round of drinks for the people in the bar. The route back to the final bar, was partially uphill and back to Lincoln Street. We had to stop for traffic and it took everyone’s effort to get the bike rolling again. The journey was only 600 meters to the Harrington Centennial Hall parking lot. We dismounted and crossed Lake Street to the Bayview Pub. It was on the second floor and two ladies decided to use the elevator! There were only 19 stairs to climb. There were water glasses on the table, like the other bars. This time we got to try four different Alaska beers: - 49° Solstice IPA 6.8% alcohol, Midnight Sun and Brewing Monk’s Mistress 11.5% Dark Ale, 49° Alaska 8 Star Lager 4.9% alcohol, and Midnight Sun and Brewing Belgian style Golden Ale 8%. The initial pour was about two ounces and people could ask for more. People could order food at their own cost. Bethany left us after the four beer were tasted. She had another group to guide in 25 minutes. She reminded everyone three or four times that the final shuttle bus left Harrington Centennial Hall (across the street) at 4 p.m. ( All passengers were aboard by 4:30 p.m.). We sat with the Albuquerque men and a couple from Vancouver at Bayview and had a nice chat.

Refreshed, there was still three hours before the last shuttle bus returned to the ship. We resumed our wandering going back almost to the Sitka Pioneer Home to see the old Russian Blockhouse It is a replica of the 1849 building the was part of a fort the separated the Russian and Tlingit sessions of Sitka after the Tlingit returned in 1824.

Very close by was the grave of Yakob Netsvetov. He was the first native born Russian Orthodox priest of Alaskan native heritage who at 24, in 1828, started his missionary work for 15 years serving in churches in the Aleutian islands then serving in the Yukon and Kuskokwin, before arriving in Sitka. At this site. The Church of the Resurrection was built. The Russian Czar Alexander I required the Russian American Company to support the Orthodox church missionary work. The church was part of the fortified wall and in 1855 the Tlingit skirmished at a nearby stockade gate and broke into the church. In 1857 the name was changed to Holy Trinity Church. Yakob Netsvetov was buried here in 1864. The church was dismantled in 1875 after the American military had taken over jurisdiction in the area.

We returned to the Harrington Centennial Hall and continued on to the Russian Bishop’s House built in 1842 and the nearby 1897 schoolhouse. The house is restored to how it looked in the 1850s when it was the home of the bishop, where Tlingit children were schooled and where Native and Kryol (mixed ancestry) men studied to become Russian orthodox priests since there were similarities between the church’s ceremonies and the Tlingit traditions. We were following the Sea Walk running parallel to Lincoln Street on the way to Sitka National Historic Park. Next was the 1899 stone and wood building, St. Peter’s by the Sea Episcopal Church. It was consecrated on April 15, 1900.

We passed the Sitka Sound Science Center housed in the 1929 Sage Building, and restored Sawmill building now part of an aquaculture school. It was on the way to Sitka National Historical Park, just about 500 meters from Harrington Centennial Hall. At the entrance is the park cultural centre were Haida and Tlingit totem poles from the early 1900s and modern day. On the Sitka Totem Trail Loop you can pass the battlefield of the 1804 fight between Tlingit Kiks.ádi warriors and Russian fur traders. The Sitka Totem Trail Loop is a beautiful walk in nature with a variety of different length trails through towering trees. The Indian River runs through the park.

By 2 we were back to Harrington Centennial Hall and found a little coffee shop to buy coffee and share a huge ginger cookie, before lining up for the shuttle bus. With about 300 people already in line it took less than 15 minutes to be seated in a bus. There were about 5,000 cruise passengers from the two ships exploring Sitka. (Westerdam had about 1,900 and Discovery had over 4,000 passengers) We were back in plenty of time to be in the Crow’s Nest for 4 p.m. to play Five Crowns with Pat and Pete. The captain announced that the bow would be open for sail away and the ship was backing away from its berth about 4:45 p.m., 15 minutes early. We stopped the card game and went to watch the manoeuvre on the bow which was accessed from deck 4.

Once sailing in Sitka Sound we went down to dinner in the dining room sitting with Joyce from San Diego and Americans, Barbara, Linda and Harold. I chose American Eagle Chocolate for dessert and was surprised by the presentation of chocolate mousse. Back at the stateroom looking at the account we found that another refund of a port fees had been credited to the account. We are running a credit balance, always nice to see. After dinner there were only us and another couple for the ballroom dance hour. The show this evening was the ship dance company, Step One Dance Company presenting In Tandem that we had seen on the Japan portion of the cruise. We went up to Lido for tea and another dessert and could see the Discovery Princess ship several kilometres behind against a colourful sunset. Discovery is also going to Ketchikan tomorrow..

Steps. 20,058 Flights 30